Filip H.A. Claeys

Trekking in Mountainous and Subarctic Regions


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Scandinavia 2019

Another memorable Scandinavia experience at the end of June and beginning of July:

  • In Denmark I do some short walks on Tornby beach and pay a visit to the massive dunes surrounding (and almost engulfing) the Rubjerg Knude lighthouse. I spend the night on an official remote forest bivouac spot, which is a new experience for me in this country.
  • On the border between Norway and Sweden, I do an adventurous and physically strenuous 8-day trek including packrafting through the adjacent protected areas of Långfjället, Rogen and Femundsmarka. Nights are spent wild camping, and as usual I have to negotiate endless boulders, tree roots, marshes, … while walking.
  • I subsequently head further into Sweden and do a fairly comprehensive 1-day exploration of Sonfjället NP on foot. This park consists of a mountainous area surrounded by extensive forests, and hosts Europe’s densest population of brown bear.
  • Finally, I end up in Skuleskogen NP at the shores of the Gulf of Bothnia. Skuleskogen is part of the so-called Höga Kusten, where since the last ice age the land has risen 300 m from the sea. I do a 2-day trek during which I walk most of the park’s trails.

Full-blown reports including pictures will follow in due time, here is however a sneak preview:

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Sweden 2016: Rogen

My Scandinavia experience in June 2016 started with a 124 km trek on foot and by packraft through a region that is sometimes referred to as “Grenselandet”, as it sits on the border between Sweden and Norway. The core of Grenselandet is made up of a 2000 km² conglomerate of national parks and nature reserves that includes the following areas:

  1. Langtjønna
  2. Femundsmarka
  3. Femundslia
  4. Grøvelsjøen
  5. Gutulia
  6. Rogen
  7. Töfsingdalen
  8. Långfjället
  9. Städjan-Nipfjället

In June 2015 I respectively traveled through Femundslia, Femundsmarka and Rogen. In 2016 on the other hand I crossed Långfjället, Rogen, Femundsmarka and Grøvelsjøen. Focus was mainly on Rogen.

The beauty of Grenselandet is in its remoteness and ruggedness, as one will not find any spectacular fjords, glaciers nor jagged peaks in this area. Grenselandet is to be experienced by being immersed into it, rather than by some superficial sight-seeing.

I spent 8 days in the area and enjoyed lots of dry and sunny weather. Temperature-wise there was a strange contrast between warm days at the beginning and at the end, and a cold snap in the middle where temperature suddenly dropped to 0 – 5 °C.

I crossed the entire Käringsjön lake system by packraft and intended to do the same for the Røa river depression. However, due to cold weather and high winds, I only accomplished part of the latter.

Grövelsjön – Hävlingen – Slagusjön – Storrödtjärnstugan – Tandsjövålen – Käringsjön – Kråksjön – Källsjön – Uthussjön – Öster-Rödsjön – Väster-Rödsjön – Skedbrostugan – Skedbrofjället – Reva – Møllerbua – Litlbuddhåen – Storrundhåen – Kløfthåbua – Røabua – Grøtådalen – Sylen – Grövelsjön

Pictures > Sweden 2016-06: Rogen

8-4-2016 4-55-46 PM

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A midsummer night’s dream

Admiring sunsets over placid lakes, to be explored under glorious sunlight by packraft the next day, miles away from any signs of civilization: isn’t that any nature and adventure enthusiast’s dream?

I have just returned from a solo hiking and packrafting trip that took me some 280 km through the Långfjället and Rogen nature reserves on the Swedish side of the border, and to Femundsmarka, Trollheimen and Rondane on the Norwegian side. As rather typical for this time of year pleasantly warm days were mixed with rather cold ones. However, sunshine was abundant, and out of a total of 16 days, there was only half a day of rain.

As usual the full picture sets and reports will follow later. For the time being you can already enjoy the pictures below from the Käringsjön lake system in Rogen.

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