Filip H.A. Claeys

Trekking in Mountainous and Subarctic Regions

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Packrafting Semois

Last December, I made a combined packrafting / hiking solo day tour from Bouillon to Poupehan and back, and in November, I did a solo day tour on foot from Vresse-sur-Semoins to Bohan and back. Left to be further discovered is therefore the stretch of the river Semois between Poupehan and Vresse-sur-Semois…

One of the advantages of the cold and rainy weather that we have been having for weeks is that rivers in the Ardennes still have a decent flow, at least much more so than in previous years. On a day with a reasonable weather forecast, I therefore travel to Poupehan for a combined packrafting / hiking trip to Vresse-sur-Semois and back.

Weather is changy and temperature is around 8°C when I put in at the Poupehan bridge around 9:45 am. As expected, the river has a good flow and paddling therefore is pleasant. As I have experienced during a couple of other trips in recent weeks, another advantage of the unsettled weather pattern is that photographic conditions are excellent thanks to dynamic skies and intense light. Also during this trip, this becomes quite apparent.

I pass Frahan, Laviot, Alle-sur-Semois, Mouzaive and Lafôret, experience two short but intense downpours of rain, and arrive in Vresse-sur-Semois around 12:30 pm. In contrast to similar trips in the winter period, during which I am always pressed for time, I take the time for a decent lunch break.

Around 1 pm, I embark on the return hike, which is not only somewhat lengthy, but also includes 5 relatively steep ascents. The weather improves and clear spells become more numerous. One of the best things about the trail I am following (mostly GR16) is that it offers quite spectacular views of the Semois valley from several vantage points.

At 6:30 pm, I arrive back in Poupehan, after a trip of 35.4 km with a total height difference of 1095 m. Not bad for a day trip.

(Bouillon: 11.2 m3/s)

Belgium 2021-05-23: Packrafting Semois

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Flemish Ardennes: Panorama route

One positive effect of the cool and showery weather that we have recently experienced, are the highly dynamic and photographically interesting skies. One Sunday afternoon, I therefore again decide to hike the “Panorama route” in the Flemish Ardennes, starting from the tavern on top of the Hotond hill. This route is one of my favorites and is 16 km with a total of 364 m of height difference. It is therefore good physical exercise.

Belgium 2021-05-16: Panorama route

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Dode IJzer route

The “Dode IJzer route” is an easy 9 km hiking loop starting in the village of Roesbrugge, in the west of the country. The route crosses the river IJzer and passes by the quaint village of Haringe.

Weather has been unusually cold and rainy during the month of May so far, with little opportunities for walks under dry conditions. We however manage to do our hike without any precipitation, while back home rain showers keep on passing by.

Belgium 2021-05-15: Dode IJzer route

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Haspengouw is a slightly hilly region in the province of Limburg that is especially known for its spectacular cherry, pear, and apple blossoms in the month of April. Even though May has started, and early cherry and pear blossoms have already disappeared, apples and late cherries are still blossoming. Reason for this is the fact that this year’s month of April has been the coldest in 35 years.

We make a 20 km circular hike starting in Borgloon. Weather is quite unsettled and with a temperature of +11°C also not particularly warm, but the light is good and photographic opportunities are excellent.

Belgium 2021-05-02: Haspengouw

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Packrafting Ourthe Moyenne

One week after Easter, I am back at the Ourthe river, however not (only) for hiking, but rather for packrafting. During the past week, there has been considerable snow and rainfall, and the flow of the river has therefore risen to good levels, possibly for the last time this season.

The plan for the day is to paddle from Nisramont to Maboge and return on foot via Le Cheslé and Le Hérou. Joining me on this trip are fellow adventurers Evert and Tom.

Unfortunately, the weather forecast for the day is not good. Even tough we are April 11th, temperature down by the river will hover around +2C, whereas higher up the plateaus it will be around freezing. Precipitation will be constant and consist of rain, sleet and snow.

We put in at the Nisramont bridge and start paddling while sleet is coming down abundantly. We reach the rocks at Le Hérou and pass by the rock scrambling trail (secured by a chain) that we will have to descend on the way back.

We pass a number of smaller rapids, attempt to do some wave surfing, and eventually end up at the rapids at Les Ondes, which are the most “technical” on this stretch of the river. With the current flow, the rapids are good fun and we do them a good number of times.

In the meantime, sleet has turned to rain and on the remaining section to the take-out in Maboge we set a good pace. We reach Maboge after noon, but don’t bother taking a break for lunch, as the weather nor the environment are inviting to do so. We rather start hiking as quickly as possible in order not to get cold.

Eventually, we end up on top of the rocky outcrop of Le Cheslé and as the rain temporarily lessens, we have lunch whilst admiring the panorama. After lunch, it is then quickly onto Le Hérou by following the valley rim.

At Le Hérou, we take the very wet and slippery rock scramble trail down to the river, and at this point all that is left to do is follow the river back to the put-in. Sometime after 5 pm, we finally get back to the car after a trip of 27.5 km.

On the drive back, we cross the heights of Baraque de Fraiture (652 m) and end up in scenery that looks very much wintry. We make a couple of short stops to enjoy the snow and then take on the remainder of the drive home while weather conditions quickly improve.

(Nisramont: 13 m3/s rising to 16 m3/s during the course of the day)


Packrafting Salm & Amblève

Winter is slowly coming to an end and Evert and I decide to close the whitewater season in style by making one last run on the river Salm, combined with a partial descent of the river Amblève, and a return hike on foot. Indeed, now is the time, since the official closing date of the season is March 15th, which is tomorrow.

It may be true that winter is coming to an end, but during the drive to the put-in location on the river Salm, it doesn’t really look it, as we are surprised by fresh snow on the road above 400 m. At the put-in in Rochelinval, snow turns to rain, while we gear up for a frigid descent.

The river Salm is probably the most sportive in the Belgian Ardennes that can be run without special permission. After a fairly dry period, the river has a good flow today, thanks to yesterday’s precipitation.

Due to an issue with Evert’s raft, it takes until 10:30 am before we are finally on the water. Soon, we reach a first drop, which is so much fun that we run it twice. Afterwards follows a quick succession of rapids and lower drops, which remains fun until the end. Salm may be quite sportive, it however is not particularly scenic. Especially the part around the town of Trois-Ponts is below standard in this respect, however even this section remains fun to paddle.

We reach the confluence with the river Amblève and paddle to Coo where we portage around a well-known 13 m high waterfall. At the other side of the falls, we continue paddling the Amblève river. This stretch of the river is rather laid-back, but as the flow today is good, we make decent progess. We find a lost paddle, which probably belongs to a kayak rental shop, and we decide to take it along until the take-out.

After having paddled 17 km, we take out at the Cheneux bridge, pack up, have lunch, leave the found paddle behind, and start hiking in the direction of Rochelinval. The trail starts climbing almost immediately and passes the village of Monceau. As we climb higher, the sky breaks and sunny spells arrive, returning color to the landscape.

On the crest of the hills, at around 500 m, we encouter some remains of this morning’s snow, and then start our descent towards the village of Mont-de-Fosse. The weather is very changy now, with a quick succession of sunny spells and intense rain and hail showers.

From Mont-de-Fosse we hike to Bergeval through silent woods, and then take on our final descent back to Rochelinval. We arrive around 5:30 pm, after a trip of a bit over 30 km.

Today has been a great day, with very enjoyable paddling, beautiful views during our hike, and basically all types of weather including snow, rain, hail and sun.

(Trois-Ponts: 5.32 m3/s; Stavelot: 9.78 m3/s)

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Packrafting Ourthe Moyenne

Back in October, I made a beautiful combined packrafting / hiking daytrip of no less than 43 km from Hotton to Barvaux and back. On a crisp Sunday in early March, I decide to continue where I left off, and paddle from Barvaux to Hamoir, before returning on foot via the GR57 trail.

After a frosty night with temperatures around -5°C, I put in at 9:50 am in Barvaux. The sky is all clear and is expected to stay that way for the remainder of the day. Temperature will rise to +5°C, but thanks to a lack of wind, it will feel quite a bit warmer.

The stretch between Barvaux and Hamoir passes Bomal-sur-Ourthe and Sy and has no technical difficulties to speak of. Nature is not as pristine as for instance on the Houille or Sûre rivers, but there are several picturesque rock formations along the riverbed.

At Roche aux Corneilles, I make a prolongued stop and meet a French-speaking couple with packrafts. Although I have never met Alexandre and his girlfriend before, they appear to know me through my blog and videos. How is that for a coincidence!

Half an hour or so later I am back on the water, pass other rock formations (and rock climbers) and eventually arrive in Hamoir around noon. While packing up, I have a conversation with 2 Flemish mountain bikers who are interested in the ins and outs of packrafting.

At 12:30, I start the return hike which first leads across the bridge to the other side of the river, and then into the woods. At the foot of one of the rock formations that I passed by packraft, I take a break for lunch. Afterwards, I resume my hike, which goes up and down a couple of rocky ridges offering beautiful views of the river valley. Interestingly, trees have been cleared at select locations to offer breathing space to typical limestone flora, which is not visible right now, but will be in a couple of weeks.

I cross the river Aisne, which I packrafted already twice with good water levels. At this moment, paddling is sheer impossible here though as water is simply too low.

After one last climb up to Mont des Pins offering fine views towards the east, I make my final descent towards Bomal-sur-Ourthe. I cross the bridge to the other side of the river, and then simply follow the bicycle / walking track back to Barvaux, where I arrive at 5:30 pm after a trip of 33 km.

(Durbuy: 10.81 m3/s)